20110615

dinner at incanto, in which i finally meet....

no, seriously, i really *am* blogging at my LA blog. no, really. go check, nen!

anyway, one of my favourite blogs is ono kine grindz, which is based out of honolulu, but its author, reid, is a globetrotting kind of guy. we had made plans throughout the years to meet up in various corners of the globe, but finally managed to meet up for dinner at incanto, during a quickie trip to san francisco that i took with lovely miss yoony from another great food blog, immaeatchu.

incanto is the sort of restaurant that i wish was in every town--smartly casual and inviting, intimate and serious about its food. the menu is a market-dependent, with a rustic italian flare, and changes every day. chef chris cosentino is partial to offal and cuts of meat that most people would discard, but he manages to make the most of some of the most unusual parts.

even though we had to cancel our reservations and suddenly re-make them (hello highway 101! you have a lot to answer for!), the staff was gracious and accommodating, and we were seated in a cosy back room with only six tables (of which four were filled with other parties taking photos of all their food as well. and everyone was eavesdropping but pretending to ignore each other. ha. love this town.).

some of the things we ate:

incanto porchetta di testa

porchetta di testa, a pig's head salami made by marinating a de-boned head in rosemary in garlic, then braised for an eternity. if you really need to know, there's a video here, but it gets a little graphic.

incanto lardo

boccalone iberico di bellota lardo, nakita pear & mint: boccalone is the salumeria run by incanto's chef chris cosentino, and this is his version of cured acorn-fed spanish backfat. yes, lard. delicate, flavour-flavy fat. the sweet asian pear and sharp, herby mint was a wonderful complement.

incanto foie gras pig trotters

foie gras, trotters & citron marmellata: yeah, i'm not gonna lie. this was as rich--even richer, actually--than the backfat, as there was nothing that really cut through the sumptuousness of liver, and slowly braised pig's feet. i'm suddenly reminded of that soap opera "the bold and the beautiful". because it was.

incanto pulpo inzimino

pulpo inzimino, cavolo nero & aioli: baby squid cooked in its ink, with black kale and aioli. although more delicate than the pig's trotters, this one also had bold, pronounced flavours with the sweet, tender flesh of the squid playing nicely with the mild bitterness of the vegetable and the unctuous aioli.

incanto beef hearts

beef heart, sweetbreads, spinach & potato: i don't think i've ever had beef heart intentionally, nor sweetbreads, but this was a wonderful introduction. honestly, though, i don't remember their flavour apart from the rich jus, but the beef heart was tender yet with a slight chewiness, and the sweetbreads--that's thymus or pancreas to you--were slightly springy and fork tender.

incanto goat cheese stuffed figs

incanto sticky toffee pudding

for dessert we had goat cheese stuffed figs, honey & almonds and a darned tasty sticky toffee pudding & spice ice cream.

i wish i had something profound to say about it, but i don't. it is, however, what i consider to be the epitome of a great restaurant. and the food, the company, the surroundings, our crazy neighbour tables and conversation made for a great night out. mahalo, reid and yoony! hope we can do this again.

incanto
1550 church street
san francisco ca 94131

415.641.4500



5 comments:

Santos,

It was so amazing to finally meet you. It would be so wonderful if we could meet up again some time. Maybe in Manila? Or maybe in LA?

It was a nice evening, definitely memorable for the company, if not for the food.

yes! manila, la, wherever :)

and the crazy taxi driver. zomg.

Hafa adai! You have made me SO hungry! Each and every dish has something I was instantly craving, but especially drool-worthy was that foie gras (I used to consume some amazing stuff in southwest France... hmm... probably best that I moved away from there!) and sweetbreads. I order those almost automatically when I see them on the menu, because they're very unique and satisfying.

I have also had some amazing food at Incanto and will again in the future when I'm back home in SF. So creative, so tasty! OMG their desserts! I had a bay leaf panna cotta there once that was show-stopping. What's truly funny is that I grew up less than a mile from that restaurant and found myself serving someone here on Guam who cooks there. Small island, small world!

Peace out!

Hey Santos - It's great that you got to meet Reid.... it's been a bunch of years, and I still haven't been able to meet the "man, the myth, the legend!" ;o)

tamago-san, incanto was great. i have to say, i was a bit disappointed in boccalone, but what makes incanto so great with offal--their subtlety and light touch--i don't particularly want in my salumis. give me one that hits me over the head with flavour!

hey kirk--what!!!!! you haven't met reid yet? that's crazy. we all definitely need to meet up and SOON! (ps--really enjoying your new travel posts!)